LESSER SUNDA ISLANDS
INDONESIA
LOCALE
| # Species: | 552 |
| # Excl Vagrants: | 551 |
| # Endemics: | 117 |
| # Near Endemics: | 7 |
ABOUT THE BIRDING
The Lesser Sunda Islands are located just inside the Webber's Line that divides the Oriental Bioregion from the Austalasian Bioregion. The northern archipelago consists of Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores, Komodo, and Wetar Islands, all of volcanic origin. Mount Rinjani on Lombok is still active while others are now extinct. The southern archipelago consists of Sumba, Timor, Roti, and Babar, all non-volcanic and part of the Australian tectonic plate. Thus, the Lesser Sumbas lie at a boundary area between two tectonic plates, make the region geologically active and complex. Biodiversity also reflects this complexity, with 64 Indonesian endemics found there out of about 400 species recorded. The original vegetation east of the Wallace Line, which passes between Bali and Lombok along a deep water trench, was largely dry deciduous forest rather than rainforest, with higher slopes covered by dry evergreen forest. Birding tours to the area typically visit Sumba, Flores, Timor, and Komodo Islands. A few tours also visit Lombok or Roti Island as well.
BALI
Bali is located 2 miles east of the tip of Java and is one of two major airline gateways into Indonesia, the other being Jakarta. Unlike the remainder of Indonesia, Bali is Hindu rather than Muslim. While famous for it's beautiful beaches, Bali also offers excellent birding in West Bali (Bali Barat) National Park. The most important target bird is the Bali Myna, endemic to Bali. The critically endangered Bali Myna population had dwindled to only 2-3 breeding pairs by the early 2000's. A breeding and release program has led to a small population increase, but the future survival of the species is still precarious. Seeing the Bali Starling along with other specialties such as the striking and in most places difficult to see Beach Thick-knee and the rare Black-winged Starling requires a boat trip from Labuhan Lalang to areas along the northeast coast. The best chance of seeing this very shy species is to utilize the assistance of local guides. Areas along the eastern edge of the park and near the Menjangan Resort area in the north are good places to look for Green Junglefowl, Javan Banded-Pitta, and Java Sparrow. The latter is now almost extirpated on Java and most of the remaining population is only on Bali. The mangroves and mudflats around Gilimanuk Bay in the south are good for waterbirds and waders, most notably Javan Plover. The salt pans east of Menjangan Resort and west of Pemuteran are aso good for Javan Plover. Mammals are also present, including Timor Deer, which is often the best way to Black-winged Starlings that follow them, and the very shy Ebony Langur.
SUMBA ISLAND
Sumba is a scenic island typically reached by flying into Waingapu from Bali. Excellent forest birding is available in the Langgiluru National Park and forest patches east and west of Lewa. Birding is along the quiet main road through the forests. The main attractions are rare Sumba endemics such as Sumba Green-Pigeon, Sumba Hornbill, Sumba Myzomela, Pale-shouldered Cicadabird, Sumba Brown Flycatcher, Sumba Flycatcher, and Apricot-breasted Sunbird. Also present are Sumba Boobook and the recently described Least Boobook. Numerous other species are also present, including a number of Lesser Sunda endemics such as Cinnamon-breasted Kingfisher and Mees's Nightjar. While most endemics are in the forest, the elusive Sumba Buttonquail is found in grasslands. A good place to look is around Yumba. Usually one can get a fleeting glimpse of the buttonquail and not much more. Other grassland birds present their include Brown Quail, Red-backed Buttonquail, Indonesian Honeyeater, Zebra Finch, and Five-colored Munia.
TIMOR ISLAND
The island of Timor is split between the western half belonging to Indonesia and the eastern Timor Leste, which is independent. Most birding tours only visit West Timor. The island features about 270 species of birds including a dozen Indonesian endemics. Several sites are worth birding. Bipolo is a small degraded patch of lowland forest near Kupang. A large fig tree along the road attracts many pigeons including Black-backed Fruit-Dove and Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove. Roadside birding and trails leading into the forest are usually productive. Timor's most wanted bird, Orange-banded Thrush, can often be seen there. Other species include Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Black-breasted Myzomela, Timor Friarbird, and Green Figbird. Also possible is Olive-shouldered Parrot, which is declining greatly in numbers on Timor and is becoming more difficult to find. Nearby shrimp ponds are good for Sunda Teal, Royal Spoonbill, and Red-capped Plover. Adjoining fields feature large numbers of munias including some Five-colored Munia and Pale-headed Munia along with the rare Timore Sparrow and various migrants.
Farther inland is Camplong where one of the few remaining patches of lowland forest still remain on Timor. Notable species present there include Timor Friarbird, Fawn-breasted Whistler, Island Monarch, Timor Oriole, Timor Blue Flycatcher, Orange-banded Thrush, and Timor White-eye. Also present are the secretive Timor Stubtail and Buff-banded Bushbird and in bamboo stands the elusive Black-banded Flycatcher.
Two hours drive to the east is Soe and a forest patch known as Ole Nasi. The main trail goes through some scrub and secondary forest before reaching undisturbed forest. Birding is good all along the trail and the two large clearings in the forest. This area is the best place to look for Timor's most difficult species, Dusky Cuckoo-Dove and Slaty Cuckoo-Dove. It's also a good place to look for Black-banded Fruit-Dove, Black-banded Flycatcher, Timor Bushchat, and Timor Sparrow if missed elsewhere.
Timor's highest point is Gunung Mutis, located north of Soe. Elevation reaches 1500m so the avifauna is quite distinctive. Olive-headed Lorikeets are common and fixed in with their flocks are usually a few much less common Iris Lorikeets. Other common species are Metallic Pigeon, Yellow-eared Honeyeater, Streak-breasted Honeyeater, Timor Leaf-Warbler, and Island Thrush. Much more difficult is the rare endemic Timor Imperial-Pigeon and the fairly rare Olive-shouldered Parrot and Chestnut-Backed Thrush. A strange subspecies of Pygmy Wren-Babbler can be found along an indistinct old logging track leading off the main trail from a seasonally dry pond and clearing.
ROTI ISLAND
Roti Island is a small island near Timor, accessed via ferry from Kupang. Several endemics are now easier to see there than on Timor itself, notably Olive-shouldered Parrot. Also present is a subspecies of Southern Boobook that is likely to be split soon into Roti Boobook.
FLORES ISLAND
The scenic island of Flores is usually reached from a short flight from Kupang on Timor to Ruteng in the highlands of western Flores. Numerous birding sites are located nearby. The highlands 8km east of Ruteng around Poco Ranaka recach 2300m at the summit and are good for higher elevation birds. A trail to Lake Rana Mese descends through the forest from the main road for 10km. The area is good for birds such as White-browed White-eye, Flores White-eye, Russet-capped Tesia, Timor Leaf-Warbler (a possible future split), and Flores Jungle-Flycatcher.
The coastal village of Kisol is near some accessible, intact lowland forest where Flores Hawk-Eagle, White-rumped Kingfisher, Flores Lorikeet, Flores White-eye, and Flores Crow are common. Also possible is the rare Chestnut-backed Thrush, threatened with extinction due to the pet bird trade. Night birding there could yield Wallace's Scops-Owl and Moluccan Scops-Owl.
The main road between Ruteng and Labuanbajo goes through the village of Puarlolo. Small trails from the obvious telecom tower set back from the road go into decent forest. So also does a more obvious trail a couple hundred meters from the turn-off to the tower toward Ruteng. The specialty of this area is Flores Monarch. Other forest birds are also possible there.
The busy town of Labuanbajo has several birding sites nearby. The road through degraded forest to Potawangka village is a likely place to look for the nomadic Wallace's Hanging-Parrot. Fruiting trees in the area may attract Red-cheeked Parrot, Great-billed Parrot, Elegant Pitta, and Golden-rumped Flowerpecker. Some paths off the road lead into less degraded forest where additional species such as Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Green Junglefowl, Flores Green-Pigeon, White-rumped Kingfisher, and Wallacean Cuckooshrike are possible.
KOMODO ISLAND
Komodo Island is an arid non-volcanic island near Flores. It is of course most famous for the large Komodo Dragon, a giant lizard usually easily seen on the island except during breeding season from May-July. The island is reached by fast speedboat from Labuanbajo town on Flores. The main target bird on the island is the critically endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo, which still has a stable population on Komodo. Birds on the island are noticeably more confiding than elsewhere, making it easier to see species such as Orange-footed Scrubfowl and Green Junglefowl. Also of interest on the island are Great-billed Heron, Beach Thick-knee, and Barred Dove.
LOCATION OF SITE
The Lesser Sunda Islands are located south of Sulawesi and east of Bali in Indonesia. Birders typically reach the islands by taking an international flight into Denpasar International Airport on Bali and then taking a short hop flight to Waignapu on Sumba Island.