BELIZE GEOGRAPHY
Belize is a small country lying between Mexico and Guatemala. It's roughly the size of Massachusetts, measuring 180 miles long and 68 miles across at its widest dimensions. Located in the southern reaches of the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, Belize is one of 5 countries making up the once great civilization of the Maya. An ambitious project, named Mundo Maya or World of the Maya, is now underway to preserve and make accessible the incredible ruins left behind by these fascinating people. Seven sites in Belize are open to the public, of which four are regularly visited by tourists. The country is divided into districts. These are Corozal, Orange Walk, Belize, Stann Creek, Cayo, Toledo, the Cayes (pronounced "Keys"), and the Atolls.
CORAZOL DISTRICT
Corazol is the northern-most district of Belize and has a very Spanish influence. The people are happy-go-lucky and live life at a slow pace. Mangrove swamps and lagoons predominate along the coastline. The most significant nature preserve is Shipstern Wildlife Preserve which protects the shallow Shipstern Lagoon and 35 square miles of lowland forests and wetlands. Aside from that, much of the district is agricultural, especially along the Mexican border.
ORANGE WALK DISTRICT
The Orange Walk District is a major commercial and farming area in northwestern Belize. Heavy agricultural activity, especially large sugarcane plantations and small family plots of corn and beans, predominate along the Mexican border. Much of the north was once a large lakebed that has since dried up and become covered by scrub vegetation and rich tropical hardwood forests. Orange Walk is where two major Mayan archaeological sites are found, Chan Chich and Lamanai, perhaps the two most visited Mayan sites in the country. Nature reserves near Chan Chich, Lamanai, and the New River Lagoon offer extensive tracts of relatively undisturbed forests and wetlands where some of the best birding in Belize is to be found. Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary is a notable birding area found in this district.
BELIZE DISTRICT
Belize District is on the north-central Caribbean coast and is the heart and soul of Belize as well as home to the largest city, Belize City. Outside urban areas the district encompasses lowlying coastal mangroves, swamps, broadleaf forests, and numerous small islands or cayes.
STANN CREEK DISTRICT
The relatively untrammeled district of Stann Creek is the beginning of truly tropical Belize. The area is a land of mangrove-lined lagoons, beautiful beaches, coral reefs, and lowland rainforests. It was once the center of banana production in Belize until the industry was wiped out by a disease called "Panama Rot". A thriving citrus industry produces Valencia oranges and grapefruits. Further inland the land rises up the slopes of the Maya Mountains, backbone of the country. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in this area protects over 20,000 acres of nearly pristine lowland subtropical rainforest. This reserve offers wonderful birding, especially early in the morning and late afternoon, so it is best explored by staying in the reserve or at Maya Center near the reserve entrance.
CAYO DISTRICT
The Cayo District of western Belize straddles the Continental Divide and includes Victoria Peak, highest point in Belize at 3675 ft. This largest district of Belize is populated by an interesting mix of Maya, mestizos, Anglos, Mennonites, Creoles, and Chinese. The district is a significant agricultural and commercial region. It was once covered by magnificent pine forests, now largely destroyed by fires and lumbering. However, thick forests survive at higher elevations of the Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, where mountainous scenary is punctuated by 1000 ft Hidden Valley Falls. A variety of nature reserves and parks are well worth exploration, as are the relatively unvisited ruins at Xunantunich and Caracol. Perhaps the best birding is in the 7200 hectare private reserve owned by Hidden Valley Inn. This is where Orange-breasted Falcon and Stygian Owl are most likely found. The main roads and trails in the reserve offer fine birding to guests at the inn.
TOLEDO DISTRICT
In the extreme south is Toledo District, the most tropical region in Belize. This district bordering Guatemala has the highest population of Maya of any district in Belize. The region is relatively neglected by the central government, so facilities are poor and the first vestiges of a tourism industry are only now beginning to emerge. The Maya Mountains run through the center of the district. A variety of relatively unexcavated Mayan ruins can be found there. Lowland rainforst survives in pristine condition. Numerous rivers cut through the landscape on their way to the sea. It's a land of great unrealized potential where only the most adventurous currently visit.
CAYES
Offshore lie 200 islands or Cayes, many surrounded by unspoiled coral reefs. Belize is famous for its coral reefs, among the best in the world. Divers and sport fishermen flock to the area, but birders also find much to discover. Ambergris Caye is home to several endemic species from the Yucatan and is visited by many migrants during spring and fall migration. Pelagic birds nest on nearby islands and are readily seen on boat tours. Man O'War Caye off the coast from Sittee Point features the only nesting colony of Brown Boobies in Belize as well as a colony of Magnificent Frigatebirds.
ATOLLS
Far offshore are the outlying atolls ringed by startling necklaces of coral. Divers and sport fishermen are the primary visitors to these tiny islands. Dolphins and pelagic birds are readily seen around the atolls, but the time and distances involved in getting to them make them less than prime locations for birders to visit.
ABOUT BELIZE BIRDING
Belize birding tours typically visit the Maya Mountains of western Belize, sometimes nearby Tikal in Guatemala, and typically the central Maya Mountains around Cockscomb Basin but the best birding is up a quite steep hill and/or Crooked Tree Sanctuary. Blue Hole National Park is a regular stop between Crooked Tree and Cockscomb Basin. Some birding tours are based in Chan Chich, a more remote and much more expensive place to visit. Few tours visit the Toledo District in the far south due to lack of infratstructure, but some nice birding is available for the more adventurous. Finally, some birds are found only or mainly on the cayes off the Belize coast.
Birding at Crooked Tree features a fine combination of aquatic specialties such as Jabiru, Sungrebe, and Agami Heron plus Yucatan endemics such as Yucatan Woodpecker, Yucatan Flycatcher, and Yucatan Jay. The best time of year to visit is dry season from December through April. January tends to be windy and water levels are still quite high, so birds that require lower water levels such as Jabirus are usually absent. Water levels decline as the dry season progresses. The lagoon teems with bird life in June but by then the water levels are so low it's difficult to navigate by boat. April and May are better because water levels are lower but still navigable.
Birding at Hidden Valley features higher elevation and pine forest specialties, particularly Orange-breasted Falcon, Stygian Owl, Rufous-capped Warbler, and Rusty Sparrow. Hidden Valley Inn is superbly comfortable, and the private property around the lodge offers very good birding. There is an excellent combination of primary forest in the ravines, pine forest, and open areas that represent a diversity of habitats. Many birding groups visiting Hidden Valley take the road south to Caracol Archaeological Site. The road has been recently improved and paved, and the site is excellent for lower elevation forest birding. Around 2006 there were several incidents of highway robbery along the road by gangs from across the border in Guatemala. These incidents have no longer occurred after the Belize military began patrolling the road but in recent years reaching Caracol still required a military escort. Caracol used to be the most reliable place to see the rare Keel-billed Motmot, but lately this bird has been hard to find because disturbance around more accessible nesting sites has caused the bird to move into more remote areas.
Belize is an excellent choice for a first birding tour to Central America. There are fewer species to bewilder a first-time visitor to the tropics, and yet there are birds of special interest not found farther south in Costa Rica. A variety of near endemics found only in northern Belize and neighboring Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico are of special interest. Belize also combines well with birding tours to Tikal National Park in neighboring Guatemala west of Belize and easily accessible via the Western Highway.
